Frequently
Asked Questions
FAQ Page 1 | FAQ Page 2
What is the difference between pre-qualifying and pre-approval?
What is the difference between pre-qualifying and pre-approval?
A pre-qualification is normally issued by a loan officer, who, after interviewing you, determines the dollar value of a loan you can be approved for. However, loan officers do not make the final approval, so a pre-qualification is not a commitment to lend. After the loan officer determines that you pre-qualify, he/she then issues you a pre-qualification letter. This pre-qualification letter is used when you are making an offer on a property. The pre-qualification letter indicates to the seller that you are qualified to purchase the house you are making an offer on.
Pre-approval is a step above pre-qualification. Pre-approval involves verifying your credit, down payment, employment history, etc. Your loan application is submitted to an underwriter and a decision is made regarding your loan application. If your loan is pre-approved, you are then issued a pre-approval certificate. Getting your loan pre-approved allows you to close very quickly when you do find a house. A pre-approval can help you negotiate a better price with the seller, since being pre-approved is very close to having cash in the bank to pay for the house!
What is an Annual Percentage Rate (APR)?
The annual percentage rate (APR) is an interest rate that is different from the note rate. It is commonly used to compare loan programs from different lenders. The Federal Truth in Lending law requires mortgage companies to disclose the APR when they advertise a rate. Typically the APR is found next to the rate.
Example:
30-year fixed 8% 1 point 8.107% APR The APR does NOT affect your monthly payments. Your monthly payments are a function of the interest rate and the length of the loan.
The APR is a very confusing number! Even mortgage bankers and brokers admit it is confusing. The APR is designed to measure the "true cost of a loan." It creates a level playing field for lenders. It prevents lenders from advertising a low rate and hiding fees.
If life were easy, all you would have to do is compare APRs from the lenders/brokers you are working with, then pick the easiest one and you would have the right loan. Right? Wrong!
Unfortunately, different lenders calculate APRs differently! So a loan with a lower APR is not necessarily a better rate. The best way to compare loans in the author's opinion is to ask lenders to provide you with a good-faith estimate of their costs on the same type of program (e.g. 30-year fixed) at the same interest rate. Then delete all fees that are independent of the loan such as homeowners insurance, title fees, escrow fees, attorney fees, etc. Now add up all the loan fees. The lender that has lower loan fees has a cheaper loan than the lender with higher loan fees.
The reason why APRs are confusing is because the rules to compute APR are not clearly defined.
What fees are included in the APR?
The following fees ARE generally included in the APR:
- Points - both discount points and origination points
- Pre-paid interest. The interest paid from the date the loan closes to the end of the month. Most mortgage companies assume 15 days of interest in their calculations. However, companies may use any number between 1 and 30!
- Loan-processing fee
- Underwriting fee
- Document-preparation fee
- Private mortgage-insurance
The following fees are SOMETIMES included in the APR:
- Loan-application fee
- Credit life insurance (insurance that pays off the mortgage in the event of a borrowers death)
The following fees are normally NOT included in the APR:
- Title or abstract fee
- Escrow fee
- Attorney fee
- Notary fee
- Document preparation (charged by the closing agent)
- Home-inspection fees
- Recording fee
- Transfer taxes
- Credit report
- Appraisal fee
An APR does not tell you how long your rate is locked for. A lender who offers you a 10-day rate lock may have a lower APR than a lender who offers you a 60-day rate lock!
Calculating APRs on adjustable and balloon loans is even more complex because future rates are unknown. The result is even more confusion about how lenders calculate APRs.
Do not attempt to compare a 30-year loan with a 15-year loan using their respective APRs. A 15-year loan may have a lower interest rate, but could have a higher APR, since the loan fees are amortized over a shorter period of time.
Finally, many lenders do not even know what they include in their APR because they use software programs to compute their APRs. It is quite possible that the same lender with the same fees using two different software programs may arrive at two different APRs!
Conclusion :
Use the APR as a starting point to compare loans. The APR is a result of a complex calculation and not clearly defined. There is no substitute to getting a good-faith estimate from each lender to compare costs. Remember to exclude those costs that are independent of the loan.
What is PMI? Can I get rid of the PMI on my loan?
PMI or Private Mortgage Insurance is normally required when you buy a house with less than 20% down. Mortgage insurance is a type of guarantee that helps protect lenders against the costs of foreclosure. This insurance protection is provided by private mortgage-insurance companies. It enables lenders to accept lower down payments than they would normally accept. In effect, mortgage insurance provides what the equity of a higher down payment would provide to cover a lender's losses in the unfortunate event of foreclosure. Therefore, without mortgage insurance, you might not be able to buy a home without a 20% down payment.
The cost of PMI increases as your down payment decreases. Example: The cost of PMI on a 10% down payment is less than the cost of PMI on a 5% down payment. Your PMI premium is normally added to your monthly mortgage payment.
The decision on when to cancel the private insurance coverage does not depend solely on the degree of your equity in the home. The final say on terminating a private mortgage-insurance policy is reserved jointly for the lender and any investor who may have purchased an interest in the mortgage. However, in most cases, the lender will allow cancellation of mortgage insurance when the loan is paid down to 80% of the original property value. Some lenders may require that you pay PMI for one or two years before you may apply to remove it.
To cancel the PMI on your loan, contact your lender. In most cases, an appraisal will be required to determine the value of your property. You will probably also be required to pay for the cost of this appraisal. Another way of cancelling the PMI on your loan is to refinance and to get a new loan without PMI.
A FICO score is a credit score developed by Fair Isaac & Co. Credit scoring is a method of determining the likelihood that credit users will pay their bills. Fair, Isaac began its pioneering work with credit scoring in the late 1950s and, since then, scoring has become widely accepted by lenders as a reliable means of credit evaluation. A credit score attempts to condense a borrowers credit history into a single number. Fair, Isaac & Co. and the credit bureaus do not reveal how these scores are computed. The Federal Trade Commission has ruled this to be acceptable.
Credit scores are calculated by using scoring models and mathematical tables that assign points for different pieces of information which best predict future credit performance. Developing these models involves studying how thousands, even millions, of people have used credit. Score-model developers find predictive factors in the data that have proven to indicate future credit performance. Models can be developed from different sources of data. Credit-bureau models are developed from information in consumer credit-bureau reports.
Credit scores analyze a borrower's credit history considering numerous factors such as:
- Late payments
- The amount of time credit has been established
- The amount of credit used versus the amount of credit available
- Length of time at present residence
- Employment history
- Negative credit information such as bankruptcies, charge-offs, collections, etc.
There are really three FICO scores computed by data provided by each of the three bureaus––Experian, Trans Union and Equifax. Some lenders use one of these three scores, while other lenders may use the middle score.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How can I increase my score? While it is difficult to increase your score over the short run, here are some tips to increase your score over a period of time.
- Pay your bills on time. Late payments and collections can have a serious impact on your score.
- Do not apply for credit frequently. Having a large number of inquiries on your credit report can worsen your score.
- Reduce your credit-card balances. If you are "maxed" out on your credit cards, this will affect your credit score negatively.
- If you have limited credit, obtain additional credit. Not having sufficient credit can negatively impact your score.
What if there is an error on my credit report? If you see an error on your report, report it to the credit bureau. The three major bureaus in the U.S., Equifax (1-800-685-1111), Trans Union (1-800-916-8800) and Experian (1-888-397-3742) all have procedures for correcting information promptly. Alternatively, your mortgage company may help you correct this problem as well.
What is an adjustable rate mortgage (ARM)?The most common reason for refinancing is to save money. Saving money through refinancing can be achieved in two ways:
- By obtaining a lower interest rate that causes one's monthly mortgage payment to be reduced.
- By reducing the term of the loan, thus saving money over the life of the loan. For example, refinancing from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan might result in higher monthly payments, but the total of the payments made during the life of the loan can be reduced significantly.
People also refinance to convert their adjustable loan to a fixed loan. The main reason behind this type of refinance is to obtain the stability and the security of a fixed loan. Fixed loans are very popular when interest rates are low, whereas adjustable loans tend to be more popular when rates are higher. When rates are low, homeowners refinance to lock in low rates. When rates are high, homeowners prefer adjustable loans to obtain lower payments.
A third reason why homeowners refinance is to consolidate debts and replace high-interest loans with a low-rate mortgage. The loans being consolidated may include second mortgages, credit lines, student loans, credit cards, etc. In many cases, debt consolidation results in tax savings, since consumers loans are not tax deductible, while a mortgage loan is tax deductible.
The answer to the question "Should I refinance?" is a complex one, since every situation is different and no two homeowners are in the exact same situation. Even the conventional wisdom of refinancing only when you can save 2% on your mortgage is not really true. If you are refinancing to save money on your monthly payments, the following calculation is more appropriate than the rule of 2%:
- Calculate the total cost of the refinance––example: $2,000
- Calculate the monthly savings––example: $100/month
- Divide the result in 1 by the result in 2––in this case 2000/100 = 20 months. This shows the break-even time. If you plan to live in the house for longer than this period of time, it makes sense to refinance.
Sometimes, you do not have a choice––you are forced to refinance. This happens when you have a loan with a balloon provision, but with no conversion option. In this case it is best to refinance a few months before the balloon comes due.
Whatever you choose to do, consulting with a seasoned mortgage professional can often save you time and money. Make a few phone calls, check out a few web sites, crunch on a few calculators and spend some time to understand the options available to you.
A type of mortgage instrument in which the interest rate adjusts periodically according to a predetermined index and margin. The adjustment results in the mortgage payment either increasing or decreasing. A 1-year ARM, for example, will have an initial interest rate for 1 year and then adjust on the second year, and continue to adjust annually over the life of the loan. With an ARM loan, you typically get a lower starting rate in exchange for taking a risk that rates may rise in the future. There is also a cap on how much the interest rate can go up or down.
A type of ARM that includes an option for the mortgagor to change the mortgage to a fixed-rate mortgage in the early years of the mortgage term.
What is a Fixed-rate mortgage?
A Fixed-rate mortgage is a loan that has the interest rate and payment set for the life of the loan. The benefit is that you always know what your principal and interest costs are, which takes out the guesswork when planning.
A mortgage that has level monthly payments that will fully amortize over the stated term, but which provides for a lump-sum payment to be due at the end of an earlier specified term.
Does
Windsor Capital Mortgage Corporation
have
first-time home buyer programs?
Yes, AmSouth has numerous lending programs to help make home ownership affordable for low- and moderate-income home buyers.
This is the amount of money you have available to put down toward the purchase of a home. The down payment and the loan amount make up the purchase price of the home.
What sources can
I draw from for my down payment?
Examples of acceptable sources for your down payment are savings accounts, money market accounts, the sale of real estate, stock liquidation, IRAs, 401(k), cash value of a life insurance policy, brokerage accounts, retirement accounts and gifts.
Money paid by the borrower (or seller) to effect the closing of a mortgage loan. This normally includes an origination fee, title insurance, survey attorney's fees and such prepaid items as taxes and insurance escrow payments.
How much money
do I have to have left after closing?
This varies with the loan program, but most programs require 2 months of principal and interest payments in reserve after closing your loan.
What is a Good Faith Estimate
(GFE)?
A Good Faith Estimate (GFE) is an estimate from AmSouth that outlines the costs you will incur during the mortgage process. This is provided to you when you apply for your loan.
APR stands for the Annual Percentage Rate and is a measurement tool used to provide a standard basis of comparison of loans offered by competing lenders, which takes into account the loan's interest rate, closing costs, and other fees such as points. An APR lets you see the total cost of a loan, including fees and points over the life of the loan, not just the interest due.
What is
the difference between my interest rate and APR?
An APR lets you see the total cost of a mortgage, including closing fees and points over the life of the loan, not just the interest due.
When should I lock or float my
rate?
You can lock a rate anytime after we receive and review your signed loan application, you pay your application fee and you have identified a property. The typical lock-in period is 45 days. This means that once you lock in the rate, you must close your loan within 45 days. Once you lock, you cannot un-lock. If you think rates may fall, don't lock and instead float your rate. If you are unsure or adverse to risk, it might be better to lock your rate.
How do I lock my interest rate?
During the application process, select a rate for your specific loan, or call us anytime during the process to lock your loan.
Can my rate change
during my lock-in period?
No. As long as you stay in the same program, your rate is guaranteed throughout your lock period.
What
happens if my rate expires before I close my loan?
You may be required to pay an extension fee or other charges.
Also called discount points, a point is 1% of the amount of the loan. Points are a one-time fee added to your closing costs and generally results in a slightly lower interest rate on your loan.
Do I have a choice of points or no points and how do I determine whether or not to pay points?
Yes. The basis concept of points is to pay a little up-front in order to save a big amount over the life of the loan. Each discount point will typically lower your loan's rate. Points are a good idea if you plan to be in your home for a long period of time.
A fee or charge for the work involved in the evaluation, preparation, and submission of a proposed mortgage loan.
A report by a qualified person setting forth an opinion or estimate of value.
Title Insurance is a policy issued to lenders or buyers to protect any losses because of a dispute over the ownership of a piece of property.
The function of Mortgage Insurance is to insure a mortgage lender against loss created by mortgagor's default. In the event that the borrower dies while the policy is in force, a portion of the debt is automatically satisfied by the insurance proceeds.
What is private mortgage
insurance (PMI)?
Insurance written by a private company protecting the mortgage lender against loss as a result of a mortgage default.
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